Our European Adventure: Bit of a Ghent to find

Bruges to Ghent

50 km
1 lock
5 lift/swing bridges
8.5 hours

It was 8:30 in the morning when we left Bruges, leading the way at a speed you would call ridiculously fast back home. But in no time at all we were overtaken and you could see them all fading into the distant morning sun, like cowboys on a gold trail. By the time we got to the final lift bridge of the morning, it had indeed closed.

We tried to make radio contact for sometime, but got no response. We’ve been put in the naughty corner for being too slow we thought. Half an hour passed before a boat came along and the bridge was raised once more. Glancing back as we passed through the bridge, I noticed a sign missing on the approach, it read ‘automatique bruge’.

It was a long haul to Ghent, we had been told three hours, it took us eight and a half and there was nowhere to stop, due to the commercial traffic, so I kept the engine at a comfy 90^oc.

On the way, we were amazed to see, what I can only describe as, supertankers passing us and speedboats with water-skiiers (see short videos attached).

One large speedboat came that fast I was more concerned about the tsunami wave tipping us over rather than recording it and had to drive into the wave as you would at sea. Genie’s Wish took a huge dip as though going over a waterfall only to be met by immense crashing waves either side of the bow.

We entered the circumference of Ghent hot and weary and for the last two or three hours our only wish had been to stop and moor up. The map we were relying on proved useless, there were dead ends and bridges not indicated. We ended up stopping next to boats to ask the way, as you would in a car.

We came to one swing bridge and a lock manned by a chap so helpful and cheery he lifted both our spirits and after laughing at our map, he even jumped in his car and met us round a chicane of off shoots and bends to make sure we were on track (thank you).

As we entered the centre of Ghent, all but a long single mooring stage was free so we decided to moor there. It was 5pm and within minutes the haven master had walked around to relieve us of 32 euros for two nights. As night crept upon us the staging began to fill up, not with other boaters but people enjoying the cool night air. We both retired early with weariness to be bothered by the sound of shrieking laughter and mosquitos buzzing past our ears.

After finally falling asleep, we were awoken abruptly by Oddjob at 4am as two men thought it a good idea to keep dive bombing into the canal close to the bow. I opened the front doors and asked them if they spoke English, “yes, we do” one said. “Well f*** off over then” was my reply.

Now awake and unable to sleep, I spent the rest of the early hours itching like a flea ridden hound with eczema.

Later that morning, I started the planned engine service. To my horror, the oil filters I’d purchased for the trip from Trowbridge Autos back in England, were the wrong ones even though I had been buying the same filters off them for the last three years (Sod’s law).

After two lengthy cycle rides and a day and a half to source, I finally found the right filters. Unfortunately, this meant we didn’t get the chance to explore Ghent together although Tracy and Oddjob had a long wander around.

That night around 11pm, two couples sat next to the boat and began chatting quite loudly. Now normally this wouldn’t bother me as it was Friday night, but I’d been writing for about an hour and, with the added distraction, deleted all I’d just written.

In frustration, I jumped off the boat with the intention of asking them politely to move on. Before the words came out, I was handed a beer and with that I sat down and joined them. They were so lovely I fell in love with the Belgium’s that very night. Something else they shared with me was that apparently when drinking Belgium beer, the first sip is the most special. All the cloudy yeast and hops mingle with the froth before settling and this adds to the drinking experience.

All of them spoke three or four languages, a far cry from this Burnage Comprehensive boy, and they were also so tolerant of other nationalities. The world could learn from their attitude and outlook towards life,

We finally parted at around 3am with hugs and good wishes all around. Thanks for an unexpected great night and if you’re reading this right now, I’ll take that bet.