Let’s Ghent Gone

Ghent to Deinze

22 km

1 lock

1 lift/swing bridge

6 hours

After cycling once more to pick up the rest of the oil filters (they arrived next day at 9am, wow!), we topped up with water and at 12.30pm we were off.

The haven master had been kind enough to put red dots on a tourist information sheet to aid our exit from Ghent (photo attached) making life much easier for a short time at least.

Destination Deinze and depending on whom you asked it would take us four or eight hours. It actually took us six. We passed through, we suspect, the most affluent part of Belgium. As the canal snaked its way though the countryside on the River Leie, hotel sized houses were having their acres of lawns trimmed by automatic lawnmowers, like androids from a sci-fi movie. The houses, for the most part, looked unappealing and un-lived in. Characterless and stark to look at, with shutters pulled down like shops after hours. For a bright sunny day, we struggled to catch anyone actually out in their garden. Kilometer after kilometer the same old same old and very few that could sustain wildlife.

In parts, Genie’s Wish struggled and it was obvious to us that a 57ft narrow boat didn’t frequent these parts very often. We were almost grounded on a couple of very sharp bends and tilted over that much we almost fell off.

There were no landmarks or signs to indicate how far we’d come or had left to go and the map once more proved useless for this journey. Then, after a number of hours, we saw a sign. A huge great green thing it was with a crossroads clearly marked upon it in white. Deinze was straight ahead, we were on the right track or so we thought.

The long grass and trees receded and we were met by a hive of people moored in boats or sitting under canopies sipping drinks from tall glasses. Across the junction and up the cut we went as indicated by the sign only to end up in a marina with lots of arms waving suggesting we had come the wrong way. After a careful bit of maneuvering we reversed out and were on our way once more, It was quite a way before we actually met the crossroads, and with our track record, decided on asking someone before we committed to a way forward. They didn’t understand what we were trying to say and pointed us back in the direction we had come, we took our chances and cruised on.

Yippy! Our first landmark came in the form of a lift bridge. There was a ‘sound horn’ sign. So we did one long blast. Nothing!

Looking at the bridge from a distance we thought we could just about make it under, without it being raised. We couldn’t! We reversed back to the staging but the wind had picked up so much that for about five minutes we struggled to pull the boat up against it. Boat akimbo, it was then we noticed the bridge-keeper stood observing us in wonder.

Eventually, we arrived in Deinze and as we were told, there was free mooring, no facilities, but that didn’t matter.

On our approach to the staging, we were greeted by the first two English folk we had come across in almost a fortnight. Tony, a kind and helpful fella and Fred his joyful lady, equally as lovely in every way.

They were a joy to meet and many questions were answered before we’d even tied up. It was like a breath of fresh air. “Get yourselves sorted and come and join us for a drink” they said and within the hour we were sat sipping alcoholic beverages on there lush Dutch barge.

As we sat chatting, two lads from Switzerland came staggering passed the boat and, for reasons we still haven’t fathomed, Tony invited them to join us handing them more ale. Although they were not aggressive in any way, quite entertaining really, one of the chaps would not stop for air, throwing every English word he knew at us, which included brothel and prostitute at one point. We all stared on in bewilderment wondering were the conversation was going.

Later, we decided to take a stroll with Oddjob. We came across a small fun fair in the main square but decided not to go on anything with the risk of looking ridiculous, as all the rides were miniature.

The next morning, Tony and Fred knocked on before departing with lots of maps they no longer needed and even put lots of fantastic information on our memory stick for us. Thoughtful beyond words. 

Every half an hour the church next to the mooring would ring out a tune. It was nice to begin with but by the third day I could have done with Elmer Fudd’s 12 bore.

Moorings in Deinzes

Cost: Free

Facilities: None

Location: Town centre, supermarket a stone’s throw away and large DIY store a 10 minute cycle ride away. Lots of cafes and bars and various shops in the town centre with a market in the main square on Wednesday.