Dormans Reuil OK

Cumieres to Chateau Thierry

46 km

4 locks
12 hours

After setting off from Cumieres in the early morning, it was a leisurely cruise before we reached Reuil for lunch, a cute little place without a shop to its name. The free moorings were charming too, but you would need a ferris wheel of cable to reach the electrical box and a fireman’s hose for the water tap. Luckily, we didn’t need either. We had lunch and moved on.

Oddjob Reuil's OK (sulking after his bath)

Utilities a very long way from the staging

Our mooring in Reuil

It was late afternoon by the time we arrived at Dormans. Mooring behind an English couple, the chap walked over and asked why we were flying a French flag. Tracy explained that it was a courtesy flag. At this, I took the opportunity to ask why his ensign was blue and not red like mine.

“Blue is Royal Navy and can only be flown by those who have been in its service. Red is Merchant Navy and is for the rest of you” he said.

“You need to read a book on flags to save you looking like an idiot” he added.

A bit strong, I thought, for someone who didn’t know what a courtesy flag was. Only the English could be elitist about flags.

A short walk across a large bridge took you straight into the heart of the town. We grabbed a loaf and headed back quick in case Mr Flagsnob decided to untie us. Then to the first three bars of three blind mice ringing out repeatedly every fifteen minutes and a freight train every thirty, we cooked tea and settled down for the evening.

Our mooring at Dormans

Dormans town just across the river

The following morning, the fog on the river looked like a steam bath. Once more we took a trip into the town, this time for phone and wifi (pronounced weefee here) credit. Activating this is a job in itself when you don’t speak the language. I find the best way to do this is to make sure you have French folk close by, then put your phone on loud speak before you begin. When the automated service begins, you get a whole load of people unable to resist barking out the buttons to press.

All's not what it seems!

When we returned, the fog had almost cleared and we were on our way once more.

Mid-afternoon we headed into Chateau Thierry.  This was a shock to the system as we had been bobbing along through genteel champagne villages and then without warning were suddenly in the midst of a large multi-cultural town.

Our first mooring in Chateau Thierry, we moved later that same day as the wall was too high for Oddjob to negotiate

Our Oddjob friendly mooring in Chateau Thierry (including steps)

A spider's web and I'm caught in the middle

Eventually defeating the spider

As all the amenities were close by, it was a good excuse to top up with fuel and hunt down someone who sold coal as the nights were starting to get a little chilly.

As there are very few places along the canals and rivers to get fuel, a bike and a jerry can are vital

We had met a couple of French chaps, Robert and Patrick, a few kilometers back. They had hired a boat and were novices in operating a lock.  We helped them with their ropes and as Robert had studied in Bath a few years ago he could speak perfect English and so we had a good old chinwag too.

We were really pleased to wake up to find Robert and Patrick had moored behind us and after walking us to the launderette we asked Robert if he knew where we were likely to get coal. 

I will find out he said and the next day his Landrover was waiting on the mooring to take me to a local coal yard, what a lovely chap (thanks Robert and Patrick).

Robert (the French George Clooney) and Patrick

At the coalyard. Don't let the outward frailness fool you, the lady sat at the desk hauled 25kg like it was a bag of sugar

Robert also shared some of his knowledge of French wine with us as we haven’t a clue about these things (we hope it wasn’t a comment on the couple of bottles of red we gave him as thanks!). For those who are interested we have included this information at the bottom.

We spent a few days in Chateau Thierry and whilst there had a walk up to the medieval chateau.  The chateau was set immediately above the city and the vista was wonderful, especially after all the steps we had climbed.

Views from the top

 

Oddjob keeping guard at the Chateau

We noticed across the valley an unusual monument and so in the mood for a good long walk set off.  Up, up and up we climbed seemingly forever before eventually arriving at the monument which was built by the Americans after the First World War and which commemorates a number of US army divisions who liberated and held various villages in Aisne and Marne.

The monument was truly enormous and incorporated the stars and stripes in the design.  We thought we were alone and were enjoying wandering about in this beautiful secluded spot when high up in the monument itself we came across a couple getting very amorous.  We made our apologies and slowly backed away not wanting to alarm them.

We had a lovely picnic washed down with a bottle of red wine before making our descent back into Chateau Thierry.

Robert’s advice on French wine

2005 – a really good year but may not be available in supermarkets

2009 – a good year and should be readily available

Distinguishing quality:

Grand Cru Classe – Top quality wines and is the first press of the grapes.

Cru bourgeois – Taken from the second press of the grapes

Appelation Controle – Third press of the grapes and is readily available and affordable.

Vin de Table – Fourth press and the cheapest and lowest quality wines.

Moorings in Reuil

Cost: Free

Facilities: Water and electricity both free but a long distance from the staging

Location: Beautiful rural location but no shops in the village.  One bar but was closed when we were there.

Moorings in Dormans

Cost: €2 per day

Facilities: Water and electricity both €3.10 per day (or bundle for €7.20 per day included mooring, water and electricity)

Location: Short walk across the bridge into the town where there was a large supermarket and a good selection of other shops available.

Moorings in Chateau Thierry

Cost: Free

Facilities: None

Location: Supermarket and launderette 5 minutes walk.  Town centre with variety of shops (and hairdressers where Tracy had a haircut) 15 minute walk. Cinema also in town centre but all films are dubbed into French.